Amuse-Bouche, São Paulo ed.
São Paulo aka Sampa in two words? Charming & gritty.
I know this city by its cheeky vendors of pastel on Sundays, bike riders coursing 'ciclofaixas' by the hundreds, rainforest-esque shopping centers, irresistible coxinhas, and heavily tattooed bodies of all ages. These sights exude only a single thread of São Paulo's multitude.
Grit is implied in both senses of the word. Dust and gravel roughen the skin between toes and Havaianas, and coat matte exteriors on dinged-up cars. On the other, grit by way of courage, is core to the Paulistano, in ways that living in a city of 12.3 million could only afford.
During my time living in SP, I collected a list of things to do, an activity that occupied my mind daily between the hours of 9 p.m. and 3:30 a.m. Now, recently departed, I feel as though it would be a loss to stash away my list without first sharing it. I know with all certainty I would've treasured it like gold upon my arrival. Although I've done a great deal, I'm not naive enough to call this list all-encompassing, best, or what have you, especially as who's to say we even have the same taste in travel?
Regardless, I hope this collection serves as a jumping-off point, an amuse-bouche, for a memorable adventure we could one day converse about. You'll notice I've included both my vetted to-dos, and some I'm hoping to get around to. Each time I visit, I seem to get word of a new gallery or restaurant, far too late, which has come to constitute my personal ongoing checklist waiting to be resumed.
Fruits to Try (Besides Açaí)
Sweet, bold, sour, numbing.
On specific days, produce sellers from all over SP set up shop offering the freshest fruits and vegetables the city has to offer. These "feira livres" or outdoor markets house some of the most spectacular flavors I've ever tasted. Below are a handful of the fruits I'd suggest adding to your grocery list. I'd offer to describe them, but tasting them is your best bet.
Acerola: Barbados Cherry
Pitanga: Surinam Cherry
Maracujá: Passion Fruit
Carambola: Starfruit
Pinha: Custard Apple
Caju: Cashew Fruit
The feira I frequented most was the Feira Livre da Rua Barão de Capanema on Thursday mornings in the Jardins neighborhood (Rua Barão de Capanema, 178–308 — Cerqueira César). If you find yourself in a different neck of the woods, I'd suggest searching "feira livre" on Guia de Semana SP to discover other options.
Hardly Awake
A pairing of locations that best suit slow starts.
Discover the Expansiveness of Parque Ibirapuera: Parque Ibirapuera is home to joggers and bikers alike. I started going to “Ibop” to give my dog some necessary off-leash time and quickly discovered this park houses MAM o Museu de Arte Moderna, SP’s Modern Art Museum, Oca the art museum designed by renowned architect Oscar Niemeyer, and the planetarium, Planetário do Ibirapuera. There is great beauty in getting lost in this park and sipping on an agua de coco (I’ll let you figure that one out.)
Devour a Berinjela / Eggplant Toast at Takkø Café: The epitome of the too-cool-for-school cafe, this cafe brews equal parts shade and spirit. Don’t miss their torrada de berinjela (eggplant toast) and bolo de laranja e amêndoa (orange and almond cake). Let’s say I went for the ambiance and stayed for a second cup of coffee over a game of Uno. Bring your own cards, and leave the laptop at home.
Immerse Yourself in Photography at the Instituto Moreira Salles — IMS Paulista: IMS is a vertical museum/cultural center on SP's predominant street, Avenida Paulista. Additionally, IMS houses an open photography library, a swoon-worthy shop of Portuguese-translated international art books, a restaurant, and a cafe.
One for the Bookworms: Restaurante Manioca | Padoca do Maní: Created by the acclaimed Maní group, Restaurante Manioca serves up delectable comfort foods like nobody's business. The fact that this restaurant is hidden inside a bookstore, Livraria Cultura (located in Shopping Iguatemi), I’d reckon is half the charm. Its counterpart, Padoca do Maní, is a terrific bakery. (Be warned, Brazil has this sickly habit of topping carrot cake with chocolate icing. Apart from that, it’s delightful.)
An Architect's Dream, Casa do Vidro: I'm sad to say that I have yet to visit SP's Glass House owned & designed by renowned architect Lina Bo Bardi. To ensure entry be sure to email in advance. I've attempted to visit on two occasions and was denied entry both times. Here's to hoping the third time's the charm.
The Clouds have Cleared
SP's not always rainy.
Savour a Plate of Risotto de Legumes at Tasca da Esquina SP: Cheers “saúde” while clinking glasses at this Portuguese-serving restaurant that has been hailed by my partner’s family for years. I’m one to devour their risotto de legumes (vegetables), and during my pre-vegetarian era, their bacalhau.
Get a Glimpse of SP's Heart at Museo de Futebol: I pretty much dragged my feet going to SP’s football museum. (I'm no watcher of the sport.) However, my visit coincided with an incredibly special time… it was two weeks after Argentina’s win, and precisely 5 days before Pelé's passing. Immediately, I was blown away by the museum's immersive exhibits, and ended my visit getting competitive over foosball. I can't recommend it enough!
Wait your Turn for a Pastel at Barraca do Zé: Under a group of red tents outside the Museu do Futebol, is what I argue the best pastel SP has to offer. For those unfamiliar with these rectangular delicacies, pastels are a crux of Brazil's fast food scene. Fillings are sandwiched in dough and deep-fried, commonly at markets on weekends. When visiting Barraca do Zé, I strongly suggest ordering the pastel de palmito (heart of palm) and a chilled cup of caldo de cana com limão (sugarcane juice with lemon.)
Window Shopping
Traveling is expensive enough.
SP's ritzy shopping scene is impossible to miss, but if you really think about it there are some glorious places to spend if you have the means. Some shopping spots to consider exploring are the Iguatemi twins: Shopping JK Iguatemi and Shopping Iguatemi. Confusing, eh? Others: Shopping Cidade Jardim in Morumbi, Shopping Patio Higienópolis, or strolling on Rua Augusta.
Even if you're not looking to buy, I'd suggest familiarizing yourself with the following Brazilian brands. Looking back it seems as though I've described them as scents. Please, I'm no expert.
Osklen: sea salt, draping silhouettes
Unusual Brasil: textured, art-house
Cris Barros: feminine, elegant, clean
Farm Rio: spunky, patterned, rich
Ellus: platforms, constrasting colors
Now for stores that are experiences in themselves:
Bask in the Light of Fas Iluminação: Fas was originally created to house the works of German light designer, Ingo Maurer. Today, it is a sprawling gala of moments of stillness and chaos. See for yourself!
Clutch History at Casa Juisi (have yet to visit): In SP’s center, lies a gem awaiting discovery. Fashion historians come to Casa Juisi to delight and share their love of vintage designer clothing. I’m dying to visit, but in the meantime, you’ll find me stashing away my loose bills. Note, the center can be somewhat precarious, so take extra caution with your belongings when in the area.
After a day of shopping (or in my case perusing), satiate your grumbling appetite over drinks and dessert:
Spicy Drinks & Fruity Soufflé at Carlota: Stepping foot into this restaurant in SP’s Higienópolis, I was taken by Carlota’s white brick interior that served as my main source of interior design inspo for the totality of 2021. If you decide to visit, I suggest starting your night with a Carlota, a vodka-infused drink with the intoxicating flavor of cumaru (a tree native to South America), and concluding with a soufflé de goiaba (guava). Without a doubt, Carlota tops my list of places I’d love to revisit! (Psssst Chef Carla Pernambuco features a handful of recipes on her site if you’d like to take a stab at preparing them at home.)
For the Cinephile
A not-so-secret film club.
It's not difficult to catch the latest blockbuster in SP, with a Cinemark in every neighborhood. On my last visit, I got a taste of a vaster film scene which commenced with an outdoor screening in Parque do Povo.
The Wonder & Nostalgia of Cine na Praça: I can’t think of anything better than watching a movie outdoors in the company of fellow film lovers. Last month, I had the joy of watching Cruella in SP’s Parque do Povo “People’s Park,” an offering provided by Cine na Praça. Check their site for the latest programming and be sure to pack a blanket or two for the cooler evenings.
Between Showings Split a Strawberry Shake at Milk & Mellow, Cidade Jardim: This casual joint offers a wide variety of burgers (+ vegan-friendly options), fries, waffles, and a build-your-own burger experience that makes the perfect first, or in my case, 100th date.
Other cinemas worth looking into:
Satyros Cinema (Cine Biijou)
Petra Belas Artes
SP’s International Film Festival, 46 Mostra, took place this year from October 20th to the second of November. Below, you’ll find a list of cinemas that offered screenings for the festival. Dates have yet to be released for 2023, but keep an eye out for updates.
Whether you’re watching at an indie cinema or a trusty Cinemark, grab a hefty bite to eat at Kouzina:
Basque in the Comfort of Greek Dining at Kouzina: A pioneer of Greek cuisine in Brazil, Chef Mariana Fonseca opened up shop in Jardins with the idea of creating a restaurant “baseada em receitas das yayás,” (based on the recipes from Greek grandmothers.) Recommended by my godmother, I was sweetly surprised by how much their vegetarian moussaka left me wanting more.
Lastly, if film isn't quite your cup of tea, check out MIS, SP's Museum of Image and Sound:
Explore Multi-Media Creativity at Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS): SP’s Museum of Image and Sound explores photography, cinema, music, and much much more. The ‘more’ on my visit was a focus on urban graphic design in the 80s and 90s. Feeling ambitious? MIS offers online short courses on topics like David Bowie, Characters in Animation, and Film Direction… sign me up!
Baffled
It's not unheard of to find yourself at odds with SP.
When you've spent far too much of your day in traffic, and you're all out of ideas, seek refuge in my holy grails:
Sao Paulo Secreto: site
Guia da Semana: site
Rappi: order now
Sympla: site
Catraca Livre: site
And for those losing sleep over SP's affinity for meat:
Churrasco for Vegans, Who Knew?! Churrascaria Barbacoa: Let me preface this by saying I don’t eat meat, so keep that in mind in my review. Churrasco is sacred in SP. It’s the art of visiting a restaurant where waiters travel between tables like clockwork, carving slices of meat from handheld skewers until you’ve far exceeded any concept you thought you had of fullness. I’ve frequented a handful of SP churrascarias, and can confidently assert that Barbacoa has the best spread of salads a vegetarian could only dream of. (When you’re stuffed make sure to say “estou satisfeito” aka I’m satisfied.)
Have Yourself a Drink(ee)
Two spots to visit with friends.
Keep your Eye off the Clock at Raiz Club: Owned by the Grupo Jacarandá, Raiz Club is a speakeasy that offers a rotating roster of live artists with a focus on jazz. I had the pleasure of listening to a stellar harmonica player, whose name unfortunately I can’t seem to recall. Order the national drink of choice, a caipirinha, and see where the night goes.
Lastly, claim a Seat at Cava Bar (have yet to visit): Cava Bar is a teeny tiny establishment, located down a flight of stairs beneath Jardin Paulista. I made the bold attempt of visiting Cava at 7 p.m. on a Friday and couldn't secure seats. I still think of it from time to time, and hope to cross it off my list any day now.
